Walk from Pirgos to Vagionia

Walk around Crete in 50 days – Day 17 from Pirgos to Vagionia

Number of steps 24302
Burned calories 949,4
Distance 18,4 km
Walking hours 3h 31′
Pulse at arrival 81
Weather: Cold in the morning but warmer in the afternoon. No wind Average 21C

I woke up at 07.30 and had a sandwich for breakfast. Cloudy, cold but no wind. Some orange juice, my voltaren (foot is still not ok) and I left Pirgos at 09.10 Only a few nice houses. Very quiet in the morning. The normal village noise, barking dogs, roosters, sheep, chickens and “tricycles”. I am walking on the old road, less cars. Very beautiful church, newly built. It is only 15C, no sun. Did not see any stray dogs in Pirgos. Only some cats. But there are many barrel dogs ! Mostly well fed.

I slow down my tempo.. painful foot… Lots of farming here, between Pirgos and Harakas. Three eagles are circling over the olive fields, gliding towards each other, over and over again ! Nice performance. Sky is getting blue and now there is a bit sunshine (17C).

09.50 and I am entering Harakas. The medical center is closed… Here it is only 50 km from Heraklion, but I decide to walk on and hope for the best… Difficult decision but necessary if I want to succeed my walk in 50 days.. So much is organized.. .I can not call everybody to cancel or delay my overnight stays.. This is a very problematic moment… I walk on and don’t give up… The view on the Ida mountain, the evergreen valley and those eagles.. .No way to stop ! Following the road to Sternes now. Nothing else than singing birds, olive yards and yellow clover, behind it, the Asterousia Mountains.

10.30 Agia Fotia, only a few houses. Lots of grape yards, very well maintained. I reach Panagia village at 11.20 Many old people in very small houses. They seem to be happy and live pretty good. Lots of field tractors show the farmer life in this village. As I leave, I don’t see any children in the school.. It’s deserted.

11.50 arriving in Dionysi. Lots of barrel dogs. No food and no water, but they all look in good condition. Some people live very poor here. Panagia ! Getting very warm now (26C). Everywhere men working in the fields.

12.25 I am in Stavyies. Asterousia on the left and the majestic Ida on the right. I have my “elleniko sketto” in the local cafenion and take the dirt road to Vagionia.. Still lots of pain.. The dirt road brings me quicker to Vagionia where I need, for sure, a long rest. The fields are gorgeous. Can’t describe my feelings (not the pain.) ! Don’t know where to look first. I am enjoying the working bees, collecting their daily honey from the almonds’ blossom. Great aroma ! Difficult to leave this place…

13.40 Arriving at the backyard of Vagionia. The only “hotel” is full ! Many foreigners rent a room on a monthly base. They all work in the fields or building business.. I found a taxi and drove to Agia Deka, where I found only one room free.. I have to take it, but it doesn’t satisfy me.. No doctor around… Taxi driver was very helpful and friendly.. He will come to pick me up the next day and drive me back to Vagionia for my walk to Lendas.. I eat an omelette and drink a local wine to forget the pain. I am slowly slowly climbing out of the black hole I was in for two days now.. My foot is still not ok, but I feel it is changing in the good direction..

Agioi Deka is an old village, some places are dirty. Now and then I see young ones in “trendy” cafes, drinking their “frappe”. Everywhere dust and abandoned buildings. No fun to stay here, but apart from Mires (further away) the only solution. I switch the button and go to sleep.. Lots of noise… Another voltaren will make me a bit sleepy.. I am sad, but still optimistic for tomorrow.

Day 18: from Vagionia to Lentas