Walk from Istron to Kavoussi

Crete in 50 days: Day 3 from Istron to Kavoussi

Distance 18.2 km
Hours 5
Burned calories 932
Number of steps 21560
Weather Cloudy, rain and heavy wind 15 C

I wake up at 07.00 cloudy but not cold..Had my breakfast with Marie-Paule and Jean Paule and the dogs.. After the daily “internet” Marie-Paule drove me to the main road at Istro (down Kalo Horio where I stopped yesterday) and I started my walk around 09.30.

After 15′ I reached Voulisma Beach (Bay) and I could walk on a path for about 200m..Then it was finished and I continued my climbing on the horrible main road…I was passing Mistral hotel..built by my sponsor..Lots of rubbish along the roadside and down the hills…Shame on those who don’t respect nature…Lots of birds too, I must admit and flowers, such as wild black iris, cister rose, poppies (all colors) etc..

After 3.5 km I left the main road and joined the old piece of the old road, about 1.5 km. NO CARS !! And beautiful bays, unspoiled…You’ll love the pictures !! Sadly I faced also some small “chapels”, made by families that lost one of their beloved in a car or bik accident..

Passing the monastery of Faneromenis I joined the main road again at the Gournia Moon Cemping… Soon I reached the ruins of the old Minoan settlement at Gournia..Here I stayed a bit..Logic..I am blond, have blue eyes and I am a bit wild too.. I felt like home.

Suddenly the weather turned into rain and heavy winds from the north-west…Wind kept on going but the rain stopped after one hour..Around 12.10 I arrived in Pacheia Amos. I met Yannis in his “coffee house” cafenion..He was a police man for 25 years and has the cafenion for 40 years now…Yannis is 84 years old but I thought he was much younger…He made me a wonderful “elliniko sketto” (Greek black coffee), 0.8 Euro. I left and he asked me, “Are you going on foot ?” Yes, Yannis, on foot only…”So far?” Bye Yannis… He waved and made his cross… Wonderful man.

At 13.20 I got the first glimpse of Kavoussi which I reached at 14.00. I made a small tour in the village and spotted a well. The stone surrounding the well was perfectly carved by Georgos Vakiras.

As I walked into the “taverna Kavoussi”, a friendly lady said “Kalispera”..It was Sofia, having the taverna for over 35 years…I asked if she had something to eat. “Veveos, mia omeletta met patates ke ena orea potiraki krasi” (translation: “Certainly. An omelet with potatoes and a nice glass of wine”)..That will do, Sofia..

“20 years ago, it was much better, she continued, while cutting the potatoes. Many tourists, Germans, Belgians, Dutch…Now nothing anymore..I made before 80 to 100 omeletts per day and souvlaki and steaks..! Now only 5 a day and in the season, she corrected, from June to September!

Do you know the gorge? “Of course, Sofia, I walked it many times in different ways. One can see beautiful waterfalls nowedays and big slides, up to 50m!”

She played nice music out of the old grammophone, she got from her father..”65 years old” she said..!

I finished my “dinner” and paid 5 Euros…Well she was extremely friendly….

Another 1.5 km to Tolos Beach where I will spend the night..Tolos is a nice place, very quiet..Still a lot of wind..No problem, time to wash a bit clothes..they will dry easily.. HOT WATER ! That’s what I need now…It will be a long night…with a good rest..

Perfect day and I spotted no strays!

Day 4 : from Kavoussi to Mirsini