Walk from Rethymnon to Perama

Walk around Crete in 50 days – Day 44 from Rethymnon to Perama

Number of steps 34297
Burned calories 1281
Distance 26 km
Walking time 04h 46′
Pulse at arrival 90
Weather: Sunny, little breeze Average 26C

Last night, for one or another reason, I missed Albert at his dive shop..I was there at 20.00 but everything was closed.. Neighbors did not know where he was. Back to Olga’s House.. also closed (I had my key).. Found an Irish pub and I drank “my Guinness”. My goodnes, this was long ago ! Nice pint (a normal one). Good Irish music too. Not too many people, two tourists and some locals. Cosy atmosphere and perfect service..but 5 Euros for one Guinness..! (I only drank one..) Will contact Albert tomorrow…

I woke up at 07.00. Quiet in the center of the old city. Nothing and nobody to see. As Olga’s House is still closed, I left the key and walked into the the new day at 08.00.

At 08.30 I passed Albert’s office and he was there ! Yesterday we missed each other by mistake… No problem, I have to continue my walk and will be back later in the season, to book a few dives at “kalypso” dive center in Rethymnon. Many thanks, Albert, for the perfect service, as well to Jorgos and Stella !

I leave Rethymnon via the long (2km) “boulevard”, joining the old road to Perama, but first a yogurt with honey. I will take my coffee later. As I leave the “boulevard” it is 09.20 and 26C ! No wind.

09.30 Leaving Perivolia. a small touristic village at the end of Rethymnon.

09.35 Surprise ! Bill and Alice are waiting for me. I saw them in Paleochora when I walked into the village (they joined me there) with Bob and Lynn… Bill will be with me for the walk to Perama.. Nice.

09.50 Platanias, where many English stay during their summer holidays. In winter it is dead, Bill tells me. We stop at “Ji’s” cafe, owned by an English couple, to drink coffee, for me “elleniko
sketto”. Excellent and friendly service.

10.15 Time to walk on.. I am very pleased with Bill’s company. Fine man and a good walker too ! He became 60 yesterday… Well he does not look it ! Keep walking, Bill !

10.30 I am in Adelianos Kampos, the Municipality of Arkadi. Very touristic.

11.00 Skaleta, the small village where many tourist buses, going to Samaria, stop for coffee at “Dimitris” taverna.. Don’t remember how many times I was here.. Dimitris is not there, in Rethymnon, but I leave a message with my greetings.

11.30 Stavromenos, the place where Bill lives. We are at the Greek -Australian War Memorial. Many Cretan patriots and Australian soldiers died here between the 20th and 30th May 1941, during WW 2. Sad.. I feel cold again when I read “Lest we forget”, text on a wreath, put on the memorial, yesterday during a celebration. Many of these young men were parachutists. NO MORE WAR !! 1

2.00 We are in Nea Magnisia, small place. We stop at the cafenion of Vagelia, who’s husband is very ill, but still at home. She serves us two cokes (the refreshment) and she is very friendly. It is quiet and easy living in Magnisia and almost no traffic.. Vagelia cries..”O andras mou..” SHE has a hard life… We leave at 12.15 and continue climbing and winding towards Perama.

12.30 Viran Episkopi from where you can go to Skouloufia, a pretty village, Bill explains to me. Nice road to cycle too.

14.00 Arrival at Alexandrou village, passing it before entering Perama at 14.30. Big village/city with nearly 6000 inhabitants. No rent rooms to find, so we go to the police station to ask. The police man on duty is very friendly and makes many phone calls to help me… Nothing to find.. The only solution is to find a place in a village 9 km from Perama… We ask around in a local (old) cafenion to find some private room.. And, yes, a friendly man, Yannis helped us out.. He found a room, right in the center.. No luxury, but I am satisfied and I pay 20 Euros. No breakfast included.

Perama is a working village, Bill told me. One day, in a small neighbor village, he said, a policeman was distributing stickers “Don’t drive and drink” in cafenions and tavernas. He was having a raki in every place and drove on in his car afterwards..

Sitting at the cafenion “Maria Psomas”, drinking a beer, together with Bill’s wife Alice and daughter Laura, we are waiting for my friend Andy, who will bring me some private things.. The temperature (under the sun) raises up to 39,4C. Andy arrives, Perama sleeps but will be “lively” later in the evening.

We all go for a meal in a local taverna.. Afterwards I go to my “room”, hot shower and a walk in Perama.. I spot many cars, “tuned up”.. Never saw so many in one village… Many young men show their “tresor” by racing through the center ! Nobody seems to bother… Can’t imagine that some children cross the road… I’ll go for another “elleniko sketto” at Maria’s and join my room, just in front of the police station…

Tomorrow I’ll make the walk to Anogia (33km),in one day, because no possibility to stay overnight in Zoniana…Kalinihta !

Day 45: from Perama to Anogia